Yukon River Quest - Page 11
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It was good to have someone to talk to, and best of all, he had a satellite phone that he
was nice enough to let me borrow.  I called Kelly and told her about my GPS dilemma.  I’ll
have a new one at Ruby.

I’ve had a lousy couple of days, but I only have two more towns I need to stop in for mail,
and I guess whatever gets stolen at Emmonak, the town where I’m getting off the river, is
just less stuff I’ll have to haul home.
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6.22.09
We set off this morning for the town of Beaver.  Quinton promised it would be the
undisputed party town of the Yukon.  Otherwise, they wouldn’t call it Beaver.  This tiny village
wasn’t a party town on the morning we came in, but it might liven up at night.  It was the
exact opposite of Ft. Yukon.  The houses were neat and clean.  There wasn’t junk
everywhere, and I didn’t see anyone who appeared to have recently escaped from a prison
or mental institution.  I really hope the rest of the towns along the way are like Beaver.

We went to leave town, and ran into a major traffic jam on the Yukon.  A canoe with a Swiss
couple heading for the ocean was pulling in.  Four long distance paddlers were in the
same place at the same time.  I’ve never seen more than 2 before.

The Swiss had a massive pile of gear in the boat.  They even had a giant thermometer like
you would hang on your house.  They were also towing a mesh bag full of beers.  Not only
were the beers cold, the Swiss were willing to share.  God bless the Swiss!

We set out for a long day of slow current and big bends in the river.  The mountains to the
south grew nearer all day, and we should be out of the Flats tomorrow.  We covered about
130 kilometers today.  I’ve had to switch to the metric system since my GPS passed away.  I
have a new one waiting at the post office in Ruby, about 400 kilometers from here.
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6.23.09
We set off this morning into more big slow bends in the river.  There was a stiff tailwind that
made paddling a little easier, but it was strong enough to generate some choppy waves
that splashed over the deck and kept me wet.

We stopped in the tiny town of Stevens Village for lunch.  Quinton stayed with the boats
while I walked into town to look for a post office.  The first person I ran into was an old
Indian man carrying a beautiful old rifle.  He said the post office and store had washed
away in the flood, but offered to sell me some of his food if I was in a bind.  I told him I was
OK and started back to the boat.  On my way, I passed a cabin with a team of sled dogs tied
up out front and a bunch of kids in the yard playing with plastic Star Wars light sabers.

We came out of the flats, and the river squeezed back into one channel with mountains on
both sides.  We had hoped the water would speed up once we cleared the flats, but
instead, it slowed nearly to a halt.  To make matters worse, it started pouring.  I was
immediately bummed out, but we kept grinding away.

After what seemed like a month, the rain let up and we could see the Alaska pipeline, and
the only bridge crossing the Yukon in Alaska.  We set up camp and walked to the road for
pictures.  The best part about the road crossing is that it comes with a restaurant.  I had a
chili cheese-burger with onion rings and the guy at the table next to ours let me finish his
fries.  Yes, I will stoop that low on a river trip.  I also aquired half a roll of toilet paper from the
bathroom.  I left two full ones.  I wouldn’t go so low as to take the last roll.

Camp is about a mile from the restaurant.  It looked like rain, so I ran back and jumped in
the tent just as it started pouring.  Quinton stayed behind.  When I left, he was trying to talk
the waitress into letting him take a free shower, since the going rate is $10.  It looks like he’
ll be getting a shower by the time he gets to his tent.  At least it’s warm out, and the rain will
keep the mosquitoes down.
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  Message from Adam's Spotter

I'm OK!
ESN:0-7348115
Latitude:66.1445
Longitude:-148.5436
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/23/2009 03:53:10 (GMT)
Here's where I am.
Message from Adam's Spotter
 
I'm OK!
ESN:0-7348115
Latitude:66.4387
Longitude:-146.9636
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:06/22/2009 05:15:10 (GMT)
Here's where I am.
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